A Travellerspoint blog

Buenos Aires

The city of Tango, Steak, Partying and..... dog poo

sunny -30 °C

So I step off the plane into the EZE airport to find American Airlines hadn´t put my luggage onto the transfer plane! I get a taxi to my hostel where I meet THE most friendly staff ever! They argued on the phone for an hour with the airlines until they arranged a private courier to bring my bag from the airport the following day!

So after a shakey start, all was well and I was in SAN TELMO, BA! San Telmo has beautiful but run down buildings and cobbled streets - covered in dog mess! Seriously, no one seems to pick anything up!

Met quite a few people of diffrerent ages and nationalities here at the hostel (Sandanzas) and after the first day I visited Puerto Madero(which look suspicially like The Albert Docks!) I later found out all the materials to build this dock was imported from Liverpool!
We strolled around for an hour or so and grabbed some ice cream, which was amazing! That night I grabbed my first steak... I heard so much about Argentinian Steak, and this did not dissappoint! Although the price did! ... The inflation in Argentina has been between 15 and 35% in recent years, so prices are not too disimiliar to Europe!

The following night We was luckily enough to watch a speech from Christina (the president of ARG). She spoke from a stage in front of the Pink House (The equivalent to USA´s White House) in Plaza de Mayo. The streets were filled with thousands fo people who were literally crying as she spoke! They´re so passionate about their politics! Christina is very popular among the poorer masses, but not so much with the middle and upper classes. After the 2 hour speech, there was a concert and we partied in the streets until the earlier hours!

On Sunday, The Boca Juniors were playing their last game of the season against The All Boys, luckily enough the game was at home and The Boca Juniors will be celebrating winning the league so you can imagine my delight when we were able to get tickets!!
The atmosphere cannot be compared to any other game I´ve been to... Non stop noise, chaunting, singing and drums from the second we entered the stadium to the second we left! Boca fans are renound for being the most passionate fans in the world, but this passion also has a very ugly side, which is why we had to sit with the away fans! After the game, Boca fans have to stay in the stadium for an hour to let the away fans go home safely, us tourists left with the away fans but through a different exit to them and when we got outside the All Boys fans mnistook us for Boca fans and chased us for a few seconds before realising we were tourists! we laugh now, but was actually very scared at the time, it was like a pack of hyenas chasing a few Gazelles!
The game it´s self was nothing to shout about and ended up 1-0 Boca.. But the atmosphere and celebrations after the game were out of this world!

I then moved down town to Central. This is a much more commercialised and clean place of BA (although not that clean). This hostel was a ´Party Hostel´and was located just off of 9 de Julio. BA is famous for it´s crazy nightlife and during this week, I found out why! Dinner at 11, chilled drinks until 3 and then off to a club until 6 or so! The clubs were filled with locals each night and it makes you wonder how any work gets done in BA!
The hostel itself was filled with around 80% Austalians... But I still managed to find some decent people!! On a serious note, I met some fantastic lads here, some of which I will keep in contact with for the rest of my life!

We did do more than just partying however, sometimes we managed to drag ourselvesout of bed and see the city during the day. The first of which we visited the Cementerio de la Recoleta. High walls surround this necropolis, in death just as in life, generations of Argentina´s elite rest in ornate splendor! Some of the craftsman ship of the tombs is unbelivable!

The following day we went on a bicycle tour of the city (Central, Puerto Madero, La Boca and San Telmo) This would be the second time I visited the much feared La Boca! Many stories floating around of incidents here... But in my opinion, the blame is often with the tourists, if you go off the tourist track, away from the tours, or flash your expensive cameras, phones and watches in front some of the countries poorest citizans, you should expect to get robbed!! La Boca produced an extremly successful artist who knew that the Boca community could never afford to view his work. So he decided to do a master piece on some of the houses and streets of La Boca, which is why it boasts such colourful buildings.

At the end of the week, we all said our emotional goodbyes and set off in our own ways. I went back to Sandanzas in San Telmo as I needed some peace and quite so that I could complete a weeks worth of spanish lessons.

During this week, I visited the Japonese Gardens (Jardin Japones) which were a gift from the local Japanese community in 1967.

Nights during this week were a lot more quite but still managed to go out for meals, take some tango lessons (which I´m obviously great at) and get involved in some of the street parties which seemed to always be happening!

I then met up with an American guy called Patrick who I met in the party hostel, he was now in an apartment with 5 other girls and boys from his law course and they were here to study for one semester in BA. He invited me to stay at their place rent free until I moved out the city... so I did! His apartment was beautiful, modern and his house mates were awesome. They cooked dinner for us each night, woke us up with a huge breakfast and always refused to take any money from me!

These guys soon became my best friends and the fist night we went to a pool party with one of their other friends from their course (who was pretty much a millionaire).
The following night was NYE and we had a house party and then went to the rooftop for the countdown so we could watch over the whole city which was filled with fireworks! We carried on drinking after that and went to a huge club called Terraces at 3 and didnt leave the club until 8!! This was possibly the best NYE I´ve ever had!

I then said some more emotional good byes on the 2nd I set off on my 18 hour bus journey to Iguazu!

BA will be sorely missed... The tango, The steak,the crazy nightlife, the amazing people I met.... But not the dog poo!!

P.S I will upload photos as soon as I arrive in a hostel with a fully working PC! Alternatively you can add me on facebook to see photos.

Posted by chris_Arg 17:53 Archived in Argentina

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